Albanian gastronomy: what to eat in Tirana
Byrek, the king of Albanian street food
Found everywhere on the streets of Tirana, byrek is a flaky pastry filled with various ingredients: spinach, local ricotta cheese called «gjize», minced meat, or tomatoes and onions. A legacy of the Ottoman era, this savoury treat can be enjoyed at any time of day for just a few leks. Every bakery has its own recipe and locals have their favourite spots. The spinach and cheese byrek remains the most popular, but the meat version delights those who prefer bolder flavours.
Tave Kosi, Albania's signature dish
Considered Albania's national dish, Tave Kosi pairs tender oven-baked lamb with a creamy sauce of yoghurt, eggs and rice. The result is a golden, melt-in-the-mouth gratin that embodies the best of Balkan cuisine. Served in traditional restaurants across Tirana, this comforting dish pairs perfectly with a fresh tomato salad and homemade bread. Every Albanian family has its own version of this recipe passed down through generations.
Fergese and mezze, the art of sharing
Fergese is a staple of the Albanian table: a melting blend of roasted peppers, tomatoes and «gjize» baked in an earthenware dish. Served piping hot, it pairs ideally with bread and makes a splendid start to any meal. Tirana's restaurants also offer excellent mezze: marinated olives, sheep's cheese, grilled vegetables and «tarator», a cold yoghurt and cucumber sauce reminiscent of Greek tzatziki.
Raki, a tradition of hospitality
No Albanian meal is complete without raki, a grape brandy of around 40 percent alcohol. A symbol of Albanian hospitality, it is offered as a welcome gesture in every home and restaurant. In Tirana, many establishments offer tastings of artisanal raki paired with honey or walnuts. For those with a sweet tooth, Albanian baklava, less sweet than its Turkish counterpart, and «trilece», a three-milk cake with South American influence, bring the meal to a delightful close. Expect to pay between 3 and 6 euros for a full lunch at a local eatery.